Treatment & Prevention of Stretch Marks

By Rachel Lamont
Medical Esthetician and Owner of The Natural Art of Skin Care

Stretch marks or "striae," as they are called in dermatology, are a tear of the dermal layer of the skin forming a coloured and textured scar. Over time this scar may lighten in appearance, but will likely never completely disappear. 

The most common causes of stretch marks are rapid growth and rapid weight changes, hormone changes such as puberty, pregnancy, bodybuilding, and even some medications. Family gene disposing can have some parts in it as well. Some studies suggest that stretch marks become worse when coupled with a increase in cortisone, which is our stress hormone produced by our adrenal glands. Mayo Clinic research states that an increase of cortisone can weaken or prevent the fibroblasts from forming new collagen and elastin fibers, which are responsible for the skins thickness, help repair the skin, and aide in maintaining the skins stretching ability. 

The most common places to get stench marks are on your tummy, thighs, hips, breasts, buttock, however one can get them anywhere the skin can stretch. 

Stretch marks can vary in appearance especially depending on how long you've had them, what caused them, where they are on your body, and the type of skin you have. They begin as red or purple lesions and over time will fade white. In my history I have noticed they are the easiest to treat and will diminish faster when they are treated fresh and new. When stretch marks become old and white in colour, it is common for more work to be needed to treat them.

Throughout the years, many women have tried to find the perfect solution to diminish and repair the "tear in the skin" tissue. Ancient societies have used everything from different types of oils and essential oil blends, olive oils, shea butters, rosehip oil, argan oil,  frankincense and lavender to treat stretch marks. Strong acid peels like high glycolic acids, micro needling, some types of laser treatments, dermabrasion and high vitamin A and C acids have also been used to treat them. In my experience, an individualized treatment protocol that includes a mixture of the above, that works to feed the skin a high nutrient-rich skin care regime, while also using some in-house peels and micro needling at the same time, combined with at-home skin care techniques will yield the best results. The aim of treatment is always to activate the fibroblasts to produce collagen and create the hyper exfoliation needed to remove damaged skin and produce new skin cells.

In closing, prevention is the best way to "treat" stretch marks in advance. Be mindful and ask yourself if you are feeding your skin inside with a healthy diet and outside with vitamin rich, chemical-free creams and oils and, importantly, SPF care. Also always be mindful of extreme and rapid weight gain or loss, any medications that you are taking, plus your overall health.

If you are someone who has stretch marks and would like one of our qualified professionals to take a look to see if anything can be done to reduce them, book a complementary skin consult today at The Natural Art of Skin Care.

Should You Stimulate Your Skin?

By Rachel Lamont

Medical Esthetician and Owner of The Natural Art of Skin Care

As an Esthetician, people always ask me about skin stimulants, and I find there is little knowledge and understanding of the proper use of skin stimulants out there. Usually, an Eminence trained Esthetician will know how to choose a proper stimulate for you, because the Eminence line has so much to choose from and the Esthetician's that work with the Eminence line are trained to use them correctly and always end up falling in love with them!

The question of skin stimulation is a great one because when you properly, stimulants are a strong  home regime or in-house treatment, and can be very beneficial for you.

So what are stimulants? Stimulants is a general term used for an umbrella of products and ingredients that increase circulation in the skin, similar to if we were talking about masques and cleansers. Stimulants can be added to any step of your skin care regime, depending on which one you use, what you want to work on and your desired outcome.

So why use a stimulant; what is good about using one? In the right situation, they can help flush a devitalized skin type and bring life back into the skin! For an acne client, this is a way we can flush the area as well, creating more oxygen and blood flow to the congestion area. Using hot and cold presses can also be used to kill bad bacteria that may be living in the skin, while still maintaining your skin's own natural oils, bacteria and acid mantel; this is called your skin's natural flora. 

Contrary to popular belief, just bleaching acne, drying it out with over washing, and even using too much tea tree oil is not the only way to deal with breakouts! But remember, if you are stimulating your skin, you are always stimulating a purge, and this means that you and your qualified Esthetician will have to ensure you have proper extractions to help assist the purge through your skin and then up and out of your skin also. I suggest booking a facial and make sure you are ready for extractions!

On the subject of extractions, stimulants also make extractions easier. This is because they warm up the skin and therefore heat and soften the oils and dirt in your skin that is causing the congestion; congestion plugs are made up of oil and dirt. This is why heat is a great idea at this point! We have a saying in my industry; "If you bring up the pink and the blood flow in the skin, create some pink in the skin at the same time and they will flush and calm down at the same time." It also enables all the nutrients in the blood - as well as oxygen! - to flow to the target areas and assist with healing. But it's not all about acne! Stimulants are also great for flushing cellulite body tissues too! This is one of my personal favourites and I do it on myself on a regular basis.

So what kind of stimulating ingredients are out there? The organic Eminence line has a lot of them! Some of my personal favourites are listed below:

1. The Hungarian Mud Treatment for acne-prone skin types (face or body), and contains cinnamon, paprika and a detoxifying mud.
2. The Stimulating Lime Treatment for anti-aging (face and body) for rejuvenation and cellulite! This product contains large quantities of vitamin C.
3. The Cinnamon Paprika Body Lotion (Hot) for cellulite treatments.
4. The Eight Greens Masque (Hot) for hormonal acne and aging skin - this is my personal favourite!
5. In-house products like a paprika treatment with a slow heat and lots of vitamin C, or a Herbal Cellulite Treatment and the Blueberry Detoxifying Peel, to name a few.

I love stimulants! I personally use them when my skin feels dull and I want it to produce a healthy glow! I am also a weekly user of some of the body products for cellulite prone areas that I mentioned above. Visit us at the spa and feel free to ask questions about the products that we carry or can order in for you. Let us help you pick a stimulant that you will love and can add to your skin care regime today.

The Right Moisturizer For You

By Rachel Lamont

Medical Esthetician & Owner of The Natural Art Of Skin Care

 

Cleansers and moisturizers are the most important skin products, so finding a suitable one for your individual skin type is very important.  A skin moisturizer works by nourishing the skin, hydrating it, protecting it and feeding it; this very important organ!  Sometimes finding the perfect moisturizer is a bit of a trial and error game.  Working with a professional helps because they know their products best and can also take a look at your skin and ask some individual questions about skin history, daily routine and allergies, just to name a few.

Chemical FREE

This is a big one for me; Very important! This is maybe the most important thing I will say to you; You always want to choose chemical free skin, hair and nail products.  Just like you want to eat real food.  The skin is the largest organ and anything we put on it will adsorb into the body to a certain degree; approximately 30% of what we put on our skin will absorb directly into our bloodstream!  The synthetic chemicals that are commonly found in cosmetics and skin care products are not healthy for the skin.  Some cause hormonal disruptions, thyroid problems, various cancers, eye sensitivities, skin sensitivities and rashes, pigmentation, signs of aging, liver toxicity,  pore clogging, and more.  I always tell my clientele to avoid artificial fillers, talc, chemical SPFs, parabens & phthalates, and products free of artificial dyes and synthetic oils, like petroleum.

Note Important Nourishing Key Ingredients

• The key beneficial ingredients that make up a good moisturizer are as follows:
• Naturally sourced oils (I have listed a few of my most commonly used), such as;
• Coconut oils, which are great for everyone.  It has natural anti-bacterials for lesioned skin, acne, sunburns, sensitive, aging, as well as fatty acids, vitamin E, vitamin K and minerals such as iron;
• Jojoba oil, as it is the only oil that closely resembles human sebum.  Therefore, another great oil for sensitive, dehydrated, dry, healing and acne skin;
• Argan Oil, as it is high in vitamin E;
• Rosehip oil, for high levels of vitamin C;
• Sea buckthorn for hydration, elasticity, skin regeneration and an oil that acts as an anti-inflammatory;
• Evening primrose, because it is great for aging skin;
• And Calendula Oil, as it is anti-inflammatory, hydrating and healing. 

The list can literally go on forever!  The point is this; Natural oils are great for the skin and the skin loves them and grows healthy, hydrated and glows when applied in a daily routine suitable for your skin type. 

Essential Oils

These are some of most favourite ingredients to play around with and some of the most potent ones available.  These are some of my favourites, but certainly not the only ones I use. Remember, these oils are very powerful medicine from mother nature so it is important to always dilute them down to prevent concentrated chemical burns; these will appear like a rash, sensitivity, pigmentation or lesion to the skin. 

• Myrrh - Anti-inflammatory and healing
• Chamomile - Calming and soothing
• Frankincense
• Mandarin Orange - Vitamin C
• Carrot Seed - Vitamin A
• Rosemary - Stimulating and regenerative
• Geranium - Anti-aging
• Clove Oil - Great for mouth lesions
• Tea tree - Anti-bacterial

Natural fruits, Vegetable, Herbs, Spices & Natural vitamins 

Naturally Derived Acids - Some moisturizers that also contain natural acids help to remove dead skin cells and aid the skin to turn over, exposing younger and more youthful skin underneath. This will help rid the skin of old dull skin cells and help with the appearance of lines and wrinkles, pigmentation, and scarring. 

Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) - Alpha Hydroxy Acids are a group of natural acids found in foods that are water soluble. Alpha Hydroxy Acids include Glycolic Acid (derived from cane sugar), Citric Acid (found in citrus fruits), Lactic Acid (from in sour milk), Malic Acid (found in apples), Tartaric Acid (found in grapes), plus others.  Used topically to moisturize and remove dead skin cells, these acids are great for treating acne and improving the appearance of acne scars. They are also useful for improving the appearance of photo-aged skin, and firming and smoothing skin.

Bata Hydroxy (BHA) -  Bata Hydroxides are a lipid soluble oil, that can also break through oil, so it makes it a great acid for acne and deep peels. Salicylic Acid is an example of one.  Salicylic acid has no humectant properties, and in fact, it will likely causes the skin to become dryer.  If these oils are over used however, it is common for them to cause rashes.

Retinol (Vitamin A) - Retinol is a fat-soluble vitamin that has several important functions in the body. It helps cells reproduce normally, a process called “Cellular Turnover.”  This is a key ingredient for anti-aging and scar correction, and also important for normalizing the skin.  Vitamin A helps keep skin and mucous membranes that line the nose, sinuses, and mouth healthy. It also plays a role in healthy immune system function, growing new skin cells, and wound healing - which is great for after peels! Vitamin A comes from two sources; One group, called Retinoids, comes from animal sources and includes Retinol. The other group, called Carotenoids, comes from plants and includes Beta-Carotene. The body converts Beta-Carotene to Vitamin A. Major Carotenoids, including Lycopene, Lutein and Zeaxantuin, have important biological properties, including antioxidant and photo-protective activities.  I advise using them at night when the skin is rejuvenating. 

Natural SPF

A natural SPF is imperative for healthy skin.  It helps prevent collagen loss and protect the skin on a daily basis, especially the sensitive and new skin that will be developing after a good acid peel!  To use acids and not follow with a daily SPF is not a wise decision.  The new skin that is being produced by peeling is photo-sensitive and therefore exposure to the sun can cause it to become damaged, kill any new collagen it has built and sunburn the skin; All reversing the effects of your peel! If you are trying to prevent or reverse scarring and all the signs of aging, then I advise you to have proper sun protection so you can prevent your skin from suffering from over-exposure.   So, I always recommend a daily SPF for every day use, however, don’t wear sunscreens at night.  Some artificial and synthetically derived sunscreen ingredients are linked to carcinogenic effects in the body.  Chemical-free options are always my preference. 

 

Make it skin type appropriate

The skin on your face is thinner and more sensitive than other areas, so it’s a good idea to use a different moisturizer on your face than you do on your body. Of course, choose one that’s right for your skin type. If you know you have sensitive skin, it’s always a good idea to look for a moisturizer with sensitive ingredients like chamomile, calendula, natural oils or rose.  For Acne prone skin, you don’t necessary need a low oil moisturizer.  That is not always the solution; Sometimes acne prone skin needs to be hydrated to be balanced and normalize.  If you have oily skin, go with a light, oil-free moisturizer. If you have dry skin, get something richer. And if you have combination skin, go with a lighter moisturizer for your whole face and add oils on top on the dryer areas.   Keep in mind that you may need a lighter lotion in the summer, and a richer one with added oils over the top in the winter.

 

When should you use Moisturize?

Once you find the right product for your individual skin type and needs, when should you use them?  You should moisturize every day; this simple practice will go a long way toward preserving the look and health of your skin.  Always make sure you have clean hands and face before applying moisturizer.  Wash your skin with your skin-appropriate cleanser and exfoliate fn needed.  I like to tone my skin and add a serum under my moisturizer.  Scoop out the cream of choice with a clean applicator, and personally, I like to add water to all my moisturizers to dilute them down as I find they will absorb better.  Wait 10-15 minutes before applying any makeup.

I hope this helps answer some of the questions you may have about moisturizers!  If you have any other questions, book an appointment with an Esthetician at The Natural Art Of Skin Care today and we can help advise you further and specifically for your skin-type!

Anti-Aging Treatments

By Rachel Lamont

What is aging?

The easiest way to describe aging is as a natural breakdown of the elements of our body tissue. Our tissues are always breaking down and rebuilding, but with age we get more breakdown than rebuild: like taking one step forward but two steps back sometimes. In the skin, this translates to a loss of firmness creating fine lines and wrinkles, dermal thinning, build-up of dead skin cells, less oil production and so on. The skin is not functioning optimally anymore.

How to keep you skin and body from aging? Well that is a big question...There are many treatments and products that address different aspects of aging like dryness, fine lines and wrinkles due to loss of firmness, cell turnover etc. But for true anti-aging results there is no one approach: it is an accumulation of healthy choices and the continuous use of products made with natural, good for the skin ingredients.

What are Peels?

Peels safely remove the outer most top layers of the epidermis that has become old and damaged by time: dull, wrinkled, scarred, pigmented, or is otherwise no longer serving its purpose.  To reveal healthier skin underneath, we remove the old skin cells and grow healthier new ones in their place.  We do this in the natural world of skin care by using exfoliants and natural peel agents. As well as creating a good environment for healing and growing the new skin cells.  Here at The Natural Art of Skin Care we can help make this process understandable and achievable. Step-by-step! We have a variety of natural peel agents to best suit your skin:

Glycolic Acid - derived from Sugar Cane and is a AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid).  It is an acid that is used to remove lines, wrinkles, pigmentation, and scaring.  One of the most widely used in the skin care industry.

Lactic Acid - comes from sour milk and is an AHA  - naturally exfoliates without interrupting the skin's natural moisturizing factor.  Derived from sour milk, yogurt or beer, it is also an AHA used for its potent acidic properties to gently exfoliate and clarify the skin without the worry of dehydrating the skin.  Great for work on pigmentation too.

Salicylic - Derived from willow Bark and is a BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acid).  In this case it helps to break through oil and clogs and remove skin cells to reveal brighter newer looking skin. It is commonly used in acne peels as it has the ability to somewhat "reset" the sebaceous glands.

Natural Enzymes - papain from papaya, protease from pumpkin, bromelain from pineapples, malic from apples, etc. These are mild and great for sensitive skin types.

Sometimes we even use enzymes to "pre-peel" in house since they only digest dead skin cells, whilst leaving everything else intact. Used for pigmentation, fine lines, wrinkles, pigmentation and sensitive skin.

Important notes if you are considering a peel:

In-house peels are stronger than anything you can buy at a drug store. They require training and skill to use, and all peels should be overseen by an experienced medical esthetician.  Peels give great results, but need to be taken seriously. There is no safe level of sun exposure whilst getting a course of peels.  Please use extreme caution and wear sunscreen, physical sun protection, and don't plan to be out doors for long periods of time.  

Talk to your skin care professional to help better determine where peels will fit into your schedule.

Time to feed the skin 

In any good relationship - you cannot take without giving back.  This goes for skin care too; especially when you are peeling and taking away. If you take time to peel you must take time to feed your skin too...This is why skin care is so important to your overall goals of staying young or reversing the clock to more youthful skin.  The ingredients within the products that you spend your hard earned dollars on should feed your skin with natural, healthy vitamins and nutrition-rich ingredients to continue the anti-aging process for luminous, youthful skin. That's why at The Natural Art of Skin Care we only sell products with all natural, good for the skin, healing ingredients from popular organic lines such as Eminence and DerMed that yield fantastic results for clients with all skin types. 

Goodbye Dry!

By Shyla Rood, Esthetician

We have all felt it at one point or another, that flakey, dry, itchy feeling that plagues every Calgarian as soon as the weather takes a turn for the worst. When I moved from Kelowna to Calgary in 2008, I thought I was going to need a nightly soak in a tub full of moisturizer; I had never been so dry in my life! Thank goodness I went to esthetic school and I was not the only one that was dealing with cracked, dry skin. Have no fear a cure is here!

A Quick Skin Lesson

Skin is the largest organ in the human body; it interfaces with the environment and is the first line of defence from external factors.  The skin plays a key role in protecting the body against pathogens and trans-epidermal water loss, it also regulates body temperature, sensation and the production of vitamin D foliates. When skin becomes dry and irritated the level of protection is lowered causing sensitivity, cracking and sometimes infection.

Why we get dry

• Lack of hydration - are you drinking enough water?
• Low humidity - Calgary's climate or office air
• Artificially Fragranced Soaps/body washes and other products -fragrance is just an irritant and a carcinogenic, it does not help your skin!

How to say  "Goodbye" to dry skin

Exfoliation: feeding your skin is important but you want to make sure you're feeding the healthy skin that needs to be fed and not wasting product on dead skin cells. Lactic Acid is a great way to gently exfoliate the skin without scratching and irritating it, try the Strawberry Rhubarb Dermafoliant by Eminence.

Shorter Showers/Chemical Laden Soaps: Long or frequent showers remove protective oils that the skin naturally produces. When the oils are lost, water from the skin also escapes. Using harsh soap can exacerbate the effect. Soap cleansers are alkaline, which are damaging to the skin, they can aggravate dryness and leave your skin feeling tight and even, eventually, lead to a rash.

Moisturize: Don't skip this step! Protecting your skin for the elements is very important. Finding the right moisturizer for you depends on your skin type, my personal favourite for the winter is the Firm Skin Acai Moisturizer due to the hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid is a complex sugar, known as glycosaminoglycan, and is found throughout the body. It is particularly prevalent in connective tissue, the synovial fluid around joints, the eyes, the heart, the intervertebral spinal disks and the skin. It transports nutrients to cells and removes toxins, it acts as a cushioning agent, it lubricates joints and, importantly for the skin care industry, it facilitates water retention in body tissue. In fact, hyaluronic acid can absorb more than one thousand times its weight in water!

Humidifiers: A quick and simple way to help your whole family beat the dry skin blues is an in home humidifier. There are point-of-use humidifiers, which are commonly used to humidify a single room, and whole-house or furnace humidifiers, which connect to a home's HVAC system to provide humidity to the entire house. A relative humidity of 30% to 50% is recommended for most homes. Humidifiers are not only useful for skin ailments but also help prevent nose bleeds, asthma symptoms and scratchy throats. When looking into a humidifier please make sure you check out all of the options, there are many different types and depending on your family's health concerns steam vs. cool-mist can make all the difference.

The best way to treat and prevent dry skin and breakouts is to have an esthetician by your side to help take you through the change of seasons. The Natural Art of Skin Care offers complimentary Professional Skin Care Analysis appointments that will provide you with the knowledge to get you started on your personal journey to glowing, healthy skin.